Hot water extraction for carpet, tile and grout, upholstery, pet odor, area rugs and mattresses — from two locations in Galt and Lodi, serving Galt, Lodi, Elk Grove, Sacramento, Wilton and Herald. Carpet from $50 a room, $200 minimum service charge. Price confirmed before we start.
13+ YEARS OWNER-OPERATED · 1,058 REVIEWS · FOUNDER TRAINED TO THE IICRC S100 STANDARD
Doing it right
the first time!
Tap the one you need and it opens the full page — how the job is actually done, what it costs, and straight answers to the questions people really ask.
They just never got told how it actually happens. Thirteen years on the truck, and it is almost always the same five things — in the same order.
Everything else on this page is downstream of this one fact.
Sand and grit work down to the base of the pile and sit there. Every single step drives those particles against the fiber, and every step files a little more off it.
Foot traffic does not wear out carpet. Sand does. Traffic is just what presses it in.Read the full guide →
And sand is sanding it off.
Carpet protector is not a stain shield you buy as an upsell. It is a bonded coating around each fiber, and it is structural.
We reapply the protector every year because we are reapplying the glue.Read the full guide →
This is the part that cannot be undone by anyone, at any price.
Carpet has luster because light reflects off intact, closed fiber. That reflection is the color you see.
Clean and dull at the same time is not a cleaning failure. It is permanent fiber damage.Read the full guide →
This is the mechanism almost nobody understands.
Barefoot oils, residue from cheap cleaners, and the microbiology and oils animals leave behind all build up in the pile. On their own they are a soil problem.
Oil does not just soil the carpet. It glues the sandpaper to the wear surface.Read the full guide →
And you will not see most of it happening.
Animals go where you are not. You are watching television in the living room and something is happening in a back bedroom.
Buy your own blacklight. It is the cheapest preventative maintenance in your house.Read the full guide →
This is the part the low-moisture companies cannot do, and it is not a marketing opinion — it is pH.
Cleaning carpet properly is a four-step chemical sequence, and skipping any step leaves the fiber worse than before. First an alkaline pre-spray goes down to release and suspend the oils.
Alkaline to release the oil. Acid rinse to neutralise. Then the protector can bond. Skip the middle step and nothing after it works.Read the full guide →
There is a reason we get called to fix these jobs.
Encapsulation works by crystallising soil into a polymer so it can be vacuumed out later. That is the design, not a defect.
A method that cannot rinse cannot neutralise. A method that cannot neutralise cannot be protected afterward.Read the full guide →
Spraying the surface is not treatment. It is deodorising.
Urine that has reached the pad cannot be reached by anything applied to the carpet face. The correct method is to flood the affected area with enzyme solution in volume — enough to reach the depth the urine reached — and then extract it back out, drawing contamination up out of the padding.
Flood it, draw it back out of the pad, then treat the surface. Anything less is perfume.Read the full guide →
This is not an insult to cheap companies. It is a subtraction problem.
Everything described above costs money before anyone turns a key. Alkaline pre-spray.
The chemistry costs more than $99. If the price is $99, something in the process was removed.Read the full guide →
It is residue, and residue is the whole problem.
When a company offers free deodoriser as a headline add-on, understand what is physically being applied. Most of these products are fragranced and sticky by design, and they are applied at the end of the job, after any rinse, with nothing to remove them.
Free deodoriser means free residue. Residue is what makes sand stick to the surface.Read the full guide →
The advertised number is not a price. It is the cost of getting somebody into your living room.
The pattern has not changed in fifty years, because it works. An advertised price gets somebody in the door.
A hallway is not a room. A closet is not a room. If the number changes after the truck arrives, that is the product.Read the full guide →
Every number is published. There is nothing to discover at the door.
A room is up to 15 by 15 feet, stated in writing. A staircase is priced as one room.
The full number before we start. It does not change unless you change the job.Read the full guide →
There is no fixed schedule. Two adults with no pets and no kids will usually go 12 to 18 months. Add animals and it moves to 6 to 8 months. Animals plus children is closer to every 6 months, with protector annually or sooner. The real answer is the carpet — when oils build up enough that the traffic lanes look grey, it is already overdue.
Slow passes lift embedded sand. Fast passes skim the surface and leave the blades in place. This is free and it is the single highest-impact thing you can do.
Barefoot oils are what make sand stick to the wear surface. Removing the oil removes the glue.
A prickly, brushy mat OUTSIDE to knock sand and grit off the shoe. A flat cloth mat INSIDE to take the oils. Shoe oils wear off in the first five to ten feet of a house — the mats decide where that happens.
Re-glue the fiber before it opens. More kids and animals means more often.
See urine in week one instead of year three. Cheap, and it prevents the only failure mode that ends in replacing your subfloor.
I sleep well at night because I know we left our best work in that house. That is not a slogan — it is genuinely the standard I measure a day against.
What I care about most is that a family gets to reset. That they get to start over with healthy living conditions in their own home, and stop living on top of years of buildup they could not see and nobody ever explained to them.
So I add every advantage I can find. The right chemistry in the right order. The rinse nobody checks for. The protector applied to neutralised fiber so it actually bonds. The honest conversation about what will not come out. Every one of those is a small decision that costs me money and gets you a result the cheap version cannot reach.
Everything written on this page is what I would want somebody to tell my own family before they hired anyone. Now you know it too — whether you call us or not.
If carpet has been neglected for years, cleaning it will get it clean. It will not undo abrasion, it will not close bloomed fiber, and it will not bring back color that has already scattered. We will tell you exactly what will and will not come out before we start — not after. That honesty is the whole business.
Shot on the job in real homes across our six-city area — not a stock library. Every photo is an actual Spiker job.
Seven services. One four-phase protocol — inspect, pre-treat, clean, protect. Honest pricing, real photos, and the number before we start.
Body oils build up in the pile — off bare feet, off shoes, out of the air from cooking. On their own they are a soil problem. Combined with sand they become something worse: loose sand falls to the base of the pile where it does less damage, but sand landing on an oily surface sticks to the top of the fiber, exactly where every footstep grinds it in. The abrasion moves off the base and onto the wear surface.
Sand is what wears out carpet. Not traffic — traffic is just what presses it in. Every step files a little more off the fiber, and once the fiber opens and blooms, the colour is gone permanently. No cleaning brings it back.
Alkaline pre-spray to release and suspend the oils, because alkalinity is the only thing that breaks the bond between oily soil and fiber. Dwell time so the chemistry can actually work. Hot water extraction at 230–250°F from a truck-mounted machine. Then an acid rinse to neutralise the alkalinity and return the fiber to neutral pH — skip that step and the carpet is left sticky and resoils within weeks. Then 400+ CFM of vacuum recovery, which is what takes the suspended soil, the spent chemistry and the loosened sand out of the building instead of leaving it to dry back into the pile.
Animals leave microbiology and bacteria-laden oils in the carpet wherever they lie down. That is the source of the smell people describe as wet-animal — not the fur, not the surface soil.
We will not run hot water and high pressure across contaminated carpet without treating it first. Heat and moisture without an enzyme spreads the contamination through the pile instead of removing it, and the room smells worse afterward than it did before. This is the single most common reason a homeowner says their carpet smelled bad after a cleaning.
An enzyme goes down across the carpet face before any extraction begins. Enzymes are not deodorisers — they are biological agents that digest the organic material producing the odour. They need contact time and they need moisture to work. Those same animal oils are also what sand sticks to, so this step protects the fiber as well as the air in the room.
Not on the carpet. Through it. Urine passes the face fiber, through the backing, and soaks into the pad — and on a large or repeated accident it reaches the subfloor. What shows on the surface is a fraction of what is underneath. You will not find it in daylight. Animals go where you are not, and older deposits often leave no visible mark at all while staying fully active.
Cleaning over urine spreads it. Water carries the contamination outward into carpet that was clean, and it wicks back to the surface as the carpet dries. So the flush happens first, and only then does the room get cleaned.
Map the real extent with UV. Flood the area with enzyme in enough volume to reach the depth the urine reached — the pad has to be flushed, not misted. Then draw as much back out of the padding as the machine physically can. This is a genuine attempt and it resolves a great many of them. It is never sold as a certainty, because until the floor is opened nobody knows how far it travelled. Pulling carpet, pulling pad and sealing a subfloor is construction work and Spiker does not do it.
Not a stain shield sold as an upsell. It is a bonded coating around each fiber and it is structural — it holds the twist and it holds the fiber closed.
Sand grinding against protected fiber creates microabrasions in that coating. Every year it gets thinner. Once enough is worn through, the fiber starts to open — the trade word is blooming — and the tight twist unravels into a frayed strand. Light stops reflecting off it and starts scattering. That is the grey. It is permanent, at any price, from anyone.
We are not selling you the same thing twice. We are re-gluing the fiber before it opens. Without reapplication there is nothing standing between the sand and the fiber, and the breakdown runs continuously until the carpet is replaced. It also has to go onto clean, neutralised fiber. Protector will not bond to carpet carrying alkaline residue — that is the most common reason people say protector did not seem to work. It was applied over residue and never bonded at all.
There is no premium tier where you finally get the real cleaning. There is one protocol and everybody gets it.
We walk the job with you before anything gets wet. Fiber identification matters more than most people realize — a burn test or a close look at the pile tells us whether we are dealing with nylon, polyester, olefin or wool, and each one takes a different chemistry. We find the traffic lanes, the filtration lines along baseboards, the spots you have already tried to treat, and we tell you honestly which ones will come out and which ones will not. A stain that has been sitting in a jute backing for two years is a different conversation than last week’s coffee, and you deserve to hear that before we start rather than after.
Pre-spray goes down matched to what we found in the inspection, and then it sits. Dwell time is the step cheap jobs skip because it looks like nothing is happening, and it is the step that does most of the work. Chemistry needs contact time to break the bond between soil and fiber. Spray and immediately extract and you are just rinsing the surface. On heavy traffic lanes we agitate with a groomer to drive solution down to the base of the pile where the soil actually lives.
The machine stays in the truck. That is not a detail — a truck-mount produces heat and vacuum that no portable unit can approach, and vacuum is what determines whether soil leaves the building or settles back into the fiber as it dries. We work in overlapping passes with dry strokes between wet ones. Hot water extraction is the method the Carpet and Rug Institute and most major carpet manufacturers publish, and for most carpet it is the method required to keep the warranty valid.
We groom the pile so it dries standing up instead of matted flat, set up airflow, and apply protector where it makes sense for the fiber. Then we walk it with you and tell you the truth about the next twenty-four hours — what will look different when it dries, what might wick back and need a second pass, and how long to stay off it. Most callbacks in this trade are not cleaning failures. They are expectation failures.
Headquarters in Galt, second location in Lodi, working the Sacramento Valley since 2013. Not a franchise, not a call center.
When somebody asks ChatGPT, Gemini or Google who cleans carpet around here, we want our name in the answer — so we track it, live, every hour. Same everywhere else: new before-and-afters, flash sales and giveaways going out daily.
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Most carpets benefit from professional cleaning every 12 to 18 months, but high-traffic homes or households with pets may need more frequent service.
Every job ends with a walk-through. You see the work before we leave, and we tell you what came out and what did not.
YOU SEE THE WORK BEFORE WE LEAVEThis is the single most common callback in this trade, and it is entirely avoidable. When a company moves furniture, cleans underneath, and sets it back down on damp carpet, that carpet cannot dry. Foam blocks and plastic tabs do not create enough airflow to fix it — they lift the legs, not the furniture. What follows is trapped moisture and the odour that comes with it, held under the piece where nobody looks until it smells.
So we clean around furniture, carefully and thoroughly, and every square foot you expose is a square foot we clean. If you genuinely want the carpet under a piece cleaned, the right way is to move it out of the room entirely and bring it back the next day once the carpet is fully dry. We will tell you that honestly instead of creating a problem you pay for later.
WE CLEAN AROUND FURNITURE · MOVING IT BACK ONTO WET CARPET CAUSES MILDEWWe clean carpet, tile, upholstery, rugs and mattresses. We are not a maid service and we are not a moving crew. We do not pick up clothing, toys, pet waste or clutter, and we do not reorganise rooms.
This is not us being difficult — it is how you get the most cleaning for your money. Prep time is not cleaning time. On some jobs it takes longer to clear a room than it does to clean it, and you are paying either way. The more carpet you expose before we arrive, the more carpet actually gets cleaned.
CARPET CLEANING COMPANY · NOT A MAID SERVICE · THE MORE YOU EXPOSE, THE MORE WE CLEANDry soil has to come out before any moisture goes down. Once water hits loose grit it becomes mud in the pile, and no amount of extraction fully recovers it. This step is not optional on any job we run — skipping it is how cheap operators make carpet look worse a week later.
If you vacuum before we arrive, we skip straight to pre-treatment and it costs you nothing. If it has not been done, we do it properly at $25 per room. Either way it gets done, because the result depends on it.
PRE-VACUUM INCLUDED IF YOU DO IT · $25 PER ROOM IF WE DOSix working tools built on real pricing. No signup, no email, no catch.
Hot water extraction sprays heated cleaning solution into the carpet under pressure and immediately vacuums it back out, carrying the suspended soil with it. The vacuum is the important half — heat and chemistry loosen the soil, but recovery is what determines whether it leaves the building or settles back into the fiber as the carpet dries. It is the method the Carpet and Rug Institute and most major carpet manufacturers publish, and for most carpet it is what the warranty requires.
Yes — those are two names for the same job, and both are ours. Heat and chemistry loosen the soil; the vacuum recovers it, and recovery is what decides whether the soil leaves your house or settles back into the fiber as the carpet dries. So the question worth asking is not which name a company uses, it is how much heat and vacuum the machine brings and how completely it pulls the water back out. On tile and hard surfaces we run a high-pressure hot-steam vortex extraction, where genuine steam does real work on a hard, sealed surface.
Heat and vacuum. A truck-mounted unit produces water temperature and airflow that no portable can approach, and both matter. Higher heat means the chemistry works faster and more completely. Stronger vacuum means more water and more soil leave with the machine instead of staying in the carpet. That is also why truck-mounted jobs dry faster despite using more water.
Because moving it back onto damp carpet traps moisture underneath and causes mildew. Foam blocks and plastic tabs lift the legs, not the piece, and they do not create enough airflow to dry what is under a sofa or a bed. We are regularly called out to fix mildew created by another company doing exactly this. Cleaning around furniture properly is the honest answer.
Move it out of the room before we arrive and bring it back the next day, once the carpet is completely dry. That is the only method that does not trap moisture. Anyone willing to slide it back the same day is creating a problem you will discover in a month.
No. We are a carpet cleaning company, not a maid service. We do not handle clothing, toys, pet waste or clutter. Prep time is not cleaning time, and you are paying for cleaning time — the more carpet you expose before we arrive, the more of it actually gets cleaned.
GALT (916) 919-7642 · LODI (209) 663-0823 · MON–SAT · 9AM–5PM
$200 MINIMUM SERVICE CHARGE · WE DO NOT MOVE FURNITURE · PRE-VACUUM REQUIRED